If you're in property preservation, you know that securing a building often means boarding it up.
But there's a right way and a wrong way to do it.
Following HUD and FHA guidelines is the only way to protect the property correctly and guarantee you'll be reimbursed for your work.
When Should You Board Up a Property?
In some situations, you may require written approval in advance of blocking windows and doors.
If you jump the gun, you risk not getting paid for your work.
You can usually get approval to board a property if:
It's been seriously damaged by a fire, flood, or other natural disaster.
The property has immediate safety hazards.
The property is in an area with a high rate of vandalism, and boarding is the best way to secure it.
It's located in an area where boarding is pre-approved.
Remember to take "before and after" photos, as they're required for reimbursement.
What to Board: Following HUD & FHA Rules
Important: Always check local codes first. They always take precedence over HUD requirements.
If the local code says one thing and HUD says another, follow the local code.
Once you've got the green light, focus on securing the ground level.
The goal is to prevent unauthorized entry.
What to board:
Ground Floor: Cover all first-floor and basement windows and doors. The plywood should cover the entire opening and its frame.
Upper Floors: You generally don't need to board windows above the first floor. The exception is if an opening is large enough for a person to climb through and can be reached without a ladder (like from an adjacent roof, fire escape, or staircase).
What NOT to board:
Secure Windows: If windows already have security bars, you don't need to board them.
Small Openings: Any opening too small for a person to fit through (like pet doors) should be secured but doesn't need a full plywood board.
Upper-Floor Windows: As mentioned, if an upper-floor window isn't easily accessible, just make sure it's locked and secured.
Before you start, make sure to carefully remove all broken glass from the windows and the surrounding area, both inside and out, to get rid of any safety hazards.
Getting the Right Materials for the Job
Don't even think about cutting corners on materials—it's a guaranteed way to get your reimbursement denied. Here's exactly what you need to have on hand:
Plywood: Stick with un-sanded, exterior-grade CDX plywood. Never use OSB (Oriented Strand Board), as it will swell and disintegrate when exposed to moisture, compromising the property's security.
Windows: 1/2" thickness. Use 5/8" or 3/4" for extra-large window openings.
Doors: 5/8" thickness.
Sliding Glass & French Doors: 3/4" thickness.
Lumber: Graded 2" x 4" studs.
Hardware: Use round-headed carriage bolts with nuts and two flat washers for each bolt (galvanized or cadmium plated is fine). Do not use screws or nails; they can be easily pried or backed out from the exterior, defeating the purpose of boarding.
For most windows: 3/8" x 10" carriage bolts.
For doors and sliding doors: 3/8" x 12" carriage bolts.
How to Properly Board Windows and Doors
Installing the boards correctly is key to protecting the property and making sure your work is secure. Here's how to do it step-by-step.
Step 1: Prepare the Windows
Take care not to damage the window sashes, frames, or hardware as you install the boards.
Remove any screen inserts. Label them with their location and store them neatly in a closet or utility room.
If you can, adjust the window sashes to make room for the bolts.
If the sashes won't adjust, remove them from the frames. Use painter's tape to label where each one came from and store them upright with the screens. Never store sashes or screens flat, as this can cause them to warp.
For hinged windows, remove them completely from the frame and store them properly.
In rare cases with fixed frames (like Fenestra windows), you might need to break a corner pane to fit the bolts. If a muntin bar (the small bar dividing glass panes) is in the way, you can adjust the bolt hole location. Do not damage the sash or frame itself.
Step 2: Cut and Drill the Plywood & 2x4s
Plywood: Your plywood should be cut to fit snugly inside the brick or block opening, with no more than a 1/8" gap. Whenever possible, use a single, continuous piece for the strongest possible barrier.
2x4s: Cut the 2" x 4" lumber so it's at least 16" longer than the width of the plywood board it will secure.
Drill Holes: Drill holes in the plywood for the carriage bolts.
Top Holes: Measure 12" down from the top edge and 20% of the board's width in from each side.
Bottom Holes: Measure 25% of the board's height up from the bottom edge and the same distance in from the sides as the top holes.
Drill 1/2" diameter holes in the 2x4s that line up perfectly with the holes you drilled in the plywood.
Step 3: Install the Boards
Place the cut plywood board over the exterior opening.
From the outside, push the carriage bolts through the plywood.
On the inside, slide the 2x4 lumber over the bolts.
Place a washer and a nut on each bolt and tighten them down. The 2x4 acts as a brace, holding the plywood securely in place from the inside.
Make sure any protruding bolts on the inside don't create a health and safety hazard.
